“Vedi Napoli e poi muori”

I’ve lived in Napoli since January 2018. I’ve tried to explore as much of the city as possible, but I think you could live a lifetime here and never see it all. You can read my love letter here.

It goes without saying that the food is unreal. There’s a list of favoured places here. I’ve put on a few pounds since I moved here, any regrets? Nope.

The quote is “See Naples and die” so I’ve compiled a few places that I love.

 

Views

It is essential that you view Napoli from a good vantage point. Here are a few good places.

  • Certosa di San Martino: 6
  • Castel Sant Elmo: 5
  • Scale del Petraio: Free
  • Parco Floridiana: Free
  • Parco Virgiliano: Free
  • Capodimonte: Free
  • Lungomare

 

Churches & Resting Places

The Duomo – A must see. Try to go during a service, but respect the silence. You can’t walk around the outside of the Duomo, you can only see the facade. Visit the crypt under the altar. 

Gesu Nuovo – Don’t judge a book by its cover. A behemoth of a church, brutal from the outside, opulent as anything on the inside. 

Santa Chiara – Modern church built within the ruins of an ancient church. Beautiful cloisters with original Majolica tiles and access to the remains of a Roman Bath.  

Sansevero Capella – The most incredible sculptures you’ll ever see. Book tickets in advance to beat the queues. 

Cimitero delle Fontanelle – Bones. Piles upon piles of bones. Read the history before visiting. 

San Gaudioso Catacombs – You must do the guided tour, the story of the preparation of the bodies is pretty intense. 

 

Piazzas

Plebiscito – a beautiful, expansive Piazza, the church in the centre of the curved columns is stunning.

San Domenico Maggiore and Piazetta Nilo – where the students hang out. Lots of bars and places to sit and take a pause.

Piazza Bellini – another favourite with students.

 

Markets

Porta Nolana Market – vibrant food market!

Pignasecca Market – fruit, fish, clothes… it’s full of hustle and bustle. 

 

Instagram Spots

Doll Hospital 

Santi Marcellino e Festo 

Palazzo della Borsa 

Palazzo dello Spagnuolo 

Metro stations!

 

Museums and Buildings

MANN – Archeological Museum, lots to see. 

Madre – Modern Art Museum, can easily be seen in around 1.5 hours, but worth a trip. 

San Carlo – If you can’t see a show here, make sure you do one of the guided tours. It’s the oldest theatre in the world.

Palazzo Reale – The staircase in the Royal Palace is incredible, as is the private theatre. 

Castel del’Ovo – The ‘Egg Castle’ in the sea is a beautiful 

 

Napoli Tips

  • Scooters – Don’t jump out of the way of scooters. They’ll go around you. 
  • Crossing the road – You must be brave and simply walk out on the road, otherwise you’ll be standing there forever. 
  • Metro – It’s useful for long distances, but it’s often quicker to walk. 
  • Coffee – At the bar is cheaper than at the table. Amaro = no sugar. The cup will be v hot. 
  • Taxis – They are incredibly expensive. Always check the price against the chart on the back of the Driver’s chair. 
  • Language – A little ‘grazie’, ‘buongiorno’ and ‘buonasera’ will get you a long way. Neapolitans are incredibly friendly and fiercely proud of their culture. 

Coping in Copenhagen.

I’m not referring to ‘coping’ in a negative sense here, but in a positive one. Copenhagen is brilliant. I’ve been three times and there are still things I’d like to see, do, eat and drink.

My love for Copenhagen has grown over the last few years due to Borgen, The Killing and The Bridge. I’ve mourned the last episode of each one and I doubt anyone will surpass Saga as my number one female lead.

So, a few tips! Apologies in advance for the lack of Scandi vowels.

 

Food

Mother: Great pizza, reasonably priced and fantastic atmosphere. Book in advance if you don’t fancy an hours’ wait in a small bar.

Relae: Local ingredients, unusual flavours, special experience. Go for the early dinner tasting menu to save some pennies. If you’re a fussy eater, I’d give it a miss.

Manfreds og Vin: 90-100% organic restaurant, also fantastic for a glass of wine if you’re that way inclined.

108: En route to Papiroen, don’t forget to stop for a coffee and a mind-blowing pastry.

Tommi’s Burger Joint: You won’t regret it. Right next to Mother in Kodbyen sits Tommi’s, home to the best burger I have EVER eaten. Condiments aplenty and perfect chips. Go hungry!

Hot-Dogs: You can buy them pretty much anywhere. On the side of the street, in train stations, corner shops… They are the perfect meal on the hop.

Aamanns: I visited the one in the airport where I ate a delicious rye, beef, remoulade and crispy onion smorrebrod, washed down with a glass (the size of my head) of Jacobsen’s Brown Ale. What a treat!

Torvehallerne: I argued with myself about putting this in ‘Food’, ‘Drink’ and ‘Stuff to See / Do’. A beautiful big food hall. You can buy food to take away, food to eat onsite, have a coffee, drink a glass of Cava while having a couple of Croquetas… I love it.

 

Drink

Lidkoeb: A boozy townhouse tucked away through a courtyard, serving up delicious cocktails and a whisky bar in the attic. What’s not to love?! I drank the finest cocktail on my 30th birthday.

Mikkeller: There are heaps of Mikkeller bars in Copenhagen, each serving up a range of fantastic beers. Warpigs is another one, situated in Kodbyen.

Coffee Collective: We visited the one in Torvehallerne. If carefully crafted coffee is your thing, enjoy.

 

Do

Bycyklen: Hire a bike. It’s a great way to get around and to see a lot of Copenhagen in a short period of time. Bycyklen bikes are fully adjustable, have satnav and are electric. Vroom.

Den Bla Planet: Use your Bycyklen and cycle the 12km out to the Blue Planet – Copenhagen’s beautiful aquarium where you’ll find Nemo and a bunch of other sea creatures.

Tivoli: The number one thing I’d recommend – make sure you visit Copenhagen when it’s open. Buy an unlimited wristband and if possible, visit on a good weather day (unless you plan on going in the evening). We had around four hours and I really wish we’d had more time. It was wonderful and I’ll definitely be back. Prices for food and drink are on a par with the outside world.

Nordic Noir Tours: We did The Bridge tour, but sites from Borgen and The Killing were also pointed out along the way (bonus!!). Wrap up warm, wear comfy shoes and make sure you’ve got enough memory on your camera.

Louisiana: If you’ve got a Copenhagen Card you get travel and entry for FREE. Set by the Oresund Sound in Humlebaek, it has a brilliant selection of modern art, and the grounds are stunning.

Botanic Garden: Foliage and Filters your thing? Get yourself to the Botanic Gardens and enjoy all the succulents and selfie opportunities.

The Round Tower: Round and round and round. Brilliant view of Copenhagen from the top (when it’s not raining and blowing a hooley). Just don’t drop anything spherical on the walk up or down.

The Zoo: There’s not really a lot I can say. If you like animals (Polar Bears and Monkeys in particular) give the zoo a visit.

Underground Art Gallery: Not your usual stark white gallery. An underground reservoir with changing exhibitions. Eerie.

Carlsberg: It would be remiss not to recommend the Carlsberg Experience in this section. The old brewery, stables where you can see the horses and carts used to deliver the Tuborg Christmas beer and a great bar at the end of it. Try the Jacobsens Brown Ale – I am a BIG fan.

Illums Bolighus: A department store on the long pedestrianised shopping street Stroget, is packed to the rafters with home-ware, textiles, accessories… the lot. N.B. I can’t be blamed for your credit card bill.

Boomerang: Want a fun Insta? Visit the street trampolines in Nyhavn.

Christiansborg Palace Tower: If you’re a fan of Borgen, you’ll want to visit the Tower and get a photo on the steps. Bonus – you get beautiful views of the city.

Design Museum: All things Danish design. An Insta-fans’ dream.