Italy is the nation of incredible food, coffee and wine. Naples is the capital of pizza. I’m very happy here. Molto bene.
Naples is awash with caffès, trattorias, pizzerias, food stands, pasticceria and more. In the short time we’ve lived here, I’ve eaten very well. A little too well. Below are my highlights and I’ll be adding to these as we go along.
Pizzas: expect to queue for all of the below…
Sorbillo: Via dei Tribunali. The most famous of the Sorbillo family pizzerias. It’s not my favourite, but it’s good.
Zia Esterina: Try Sorbillo’s Pizza Fritte. I love the Provola e Pepe, which is smoked cheese and pepper. Wash down with a Nastro in Piazza Plebiscito.
Di Matteo: Forever in my heart as it’s the first Neapolitan pizza I tried. Don’t expect silver service, but do try the Arancino. The Salsiccia e Friarielli pizza is A+++.
Da Michele: You’ll see a few pics of Julia Roberts, she visited this pizzeria in ‘Eat, Pray, Love’. A Neapolitan institution. You can order a Margherita or Marinara here. Nothing else. It’s worth the wait.
La Notizia: Of all the pizzas I’ve had in Naples, La Notizia took me by total surprise. I wasn’t quite expecting the incredible flavour combination of the Santa Lucia. Anchovies, black olives and tomatoes. Utterly delicious. We also may have tried the dessert pizza – dark chocolate melted in a folded pizza base. Oh wow.
50 Kalo: Oh yes. A carbonara pizza. Incredible.
Concettina ai Tre Santi: The yellow tomato pizza is unreal. Oh, try the Genovese Frittatine too.
Da Attilio: The star-shaped ricotta stuffed crust pizzas are exceptional, this place isn’t nearly famous enough.
Attanasio: If you’ve never heard of a Tronchetto pizza, I urge you to go here and try it.
Da Nennella: utterly frenetic, the food is very rustic, but its really good fun and costs very little.
Nanni: a wee gem we found on a Sunday. Most places were closed, but this place was full of Italian families having a Sunday get together. Beautiful food, fantastic service and super prices.
Trattoria Medina: Scarpetta, Mozzarella, Arancino… Pasta, provola e patate… Wow. Service is world class too.
La Taverna di Santa Chiara: a gem in the Historic Centre. Beautiful little place, delicious slow food. Incredible meatballs.
Tandem: THE place to get Ragu or Pasta alla Genovese.
Puok: Tommi’s in Copenhagen is absolutely superb, but I don’t think the Django will ever be beaten in my best burger books.
Prosciutteria: From Tagliere to Paninis, really delicious, simple food with an excellent wine list.
A Figlia da Maruzzara: Spaghetti Vongole and superb service. Not to mention perfect Pastiera.
Pescheria Azzurra: A fish stall in Pignasecca market with a small restaurant attached. Fresh seafood and perfectly al dente pasta. An absolute bargain.
The Neapolitans are particular about coffee. Preferably no sugar (amaro), definitely no milk, and the cup must be hot.
Passalacqua is my favourite brand, served in Mexico Coffee Bars around the city.
Pintauro: The home of exceptional Sfogliatelle. I prefer frolla (shortcrust pastry), while others prefer the riche variety (filo).
Mary’s: In Galleria Umberto you’ll find Mary’s. Always with a substantial queue and for good reason. Their Zeppole (the ridged fried donut with creme pat) are fantastic. Zeppole are traditionally given and eaten on Father’s Day.
Poppella: Fiocco di Neve ‘til I die. The most heavenly little cream bun. Try the original flavour, a very light donut filled with sweet ricotta and cream.
Menella: In my opinion, the best gelato in Napoli.
Casa Infante: A close second to Menella, particularly the Fondente.
Enoteca Belladonne: Fantastic wine bar in Chiaia with hot and cold bites.
Gran Bar Riviera: Truly quaint cafe bar and fantastic value for money.
Barril: An outdoor / indoor sort of set up. Delicious (and generous) aperitivo.
Intra Moenia: A Parisian feeling to this Piazza Bellini based bar/publishers.
Ceraldi Caffe: Pop in for a Spritz post Via Toledo shopping and be spoiled by the plate of bites.
Liquid Spirits: Charming bar just off the madness of Piazza San Domenica Maggiore. Downstairs is a fantastic event space with a view of Roman walls.
Libreria Bresario: 5€ Amaretto Sour – best I’ve ever tasted. Cocktail bar in a book shop. Thursday is jazz night.
Cammarota Spritz: Not for the faint-hearted. 1€ Spritz, not of high quality, but it’s all good fun and next door to Nennella.
Spuzzule: Great wine bar off Via Toledo.
Oak: A plethora of beers, board games AND free clementines.